The ‘drink of the gods’ cognac is well known. However, less known is where the roots of this drink originated. For example, a number of people will be surprised to read that the delicious drink was invented by the Dutch in the 17th century. How that happened and that France is nevertheless the cognac country par excellence, that’s what this article is about.
Conceived by the Dutch
In the 17th century our merchant fleet often moored in the ports of the French department of Charente-Maritime. The town of Cognac is also located in this department. Here the sailors bought their barrels of wine for their own consumption. Unfortunately, the wine could not be kept for long at the time. The clever sailors discovered that this went much better in the copper ‘fractionation columns’ in which the ancient gin was produced. They shipped these ‘fractionation columns’ to the town of Cognac, where the equipment was installed in the immediate vicinity of the vineyards. And so the very first ‘brandy’ was born.
French development
The inhabitants of the Charente department developed a second distillation process at the end of the 17th century, which gave the drink an even stronger taste. It would form the basis for today’s Cognac. Although wine was originally used for the production of the Colombard grape variety, nowadays 90 percent is the Ugni Blanc and the rest Sémillon.
The Cognac region
The Cognac region is divided into six districts, of which the ‘Grande Champagne’ and the ‘Petit Champagne’ are the most important. Because in France wine regions with a calcareous soil are called ‘champagne’ – as is also the case in the Charente department – it will be clear that the name ‘Champagne’ should not be confused with the famous sparkling wine.
Mold formation
Sherry casks have a normal oak color. Cognac barrels, on the other hand, are jet black on the inside. The reason is not that they are painted black. No, it is due to the fungus that is released during the aging of Cognac wood. One of the reasons that Cognac – and certainly when you talk about the older varieties – is fairly pricey, has to do with mold growth. During the maturation process, 20 to 30 percent of the Cognac escapes from the barrels through evaporation. This evaporation causes a black mold (Torula compniacensis richon) to form on the inside of the barrels. Unfortunately not only on the inside of the barrels. When you look over one of the villages from a hill in the Cognac region, you can see exactly where they make Cognac, namely on the roofs of the sheds where the Cognac barrels are stored. All those roofs are covered with a thick layer of said black mold.
Cognac and its qualifications
Within the Cognac we have different qualifications. So are Cognacs with the designation ‘Fine Champagne’ for at least 50 percent made from grapes from the Grande Champagne. There are also the qualifications:
- USA (Very Special). This Cognac has matured for at least three years in French oak;
- VSOP (Very Special Old Pale). Cognac that has been raised for at least five years;
- XO’s. Concerns the older Napoleon’s and the superior XO’s.
Note
The alcohol percentage of all Cognacs is 40 percent, no more and no less. This nectar is often diluted with spring water before bottling. This happens because more alcohol is usually formed during the ripening process and that is true, although it sounds a bit strange.
Exclusive French product
Although the ‘Dutch’ laid the foundation for the Cognac industry, it is and remains an exclusive French product. It is surprising that every now and there a ‘French’ Cognac is requested. Then it looks as if Cognac would also be made in other countries. However, that is not the case. Similar drinks are bottled in many countries, but they are not allowed to use the protected name ‘Cognac’. In the same way, incidentally, as applies to Champagne. Strange that you never hear that people order a ‘French’ Champagne.