The color of the croton (Codiaeum variegatum) resembles maple leaves in autumn, the plant has bright red, orange or yellow leaves. Croton belongs to the family of Euphorbiaceae, these are herbs, shrubs or trees with large colorful bracts, this family is spread all over the world but mainly occurs in tropical regions. The Latin name Codiaeum is derived from the native name for the croton; Kodiho. There are many cultivars of Codiaeum variegatum, the plant is not easy to keep because it makes great demands on the temperature.
Content
- Origin and taxonomic classification
- Appearance
- The croton as a houseplant
- Maintenance and care
- Cuttings
- Treatment of pests and other concerns
Origin and taxonomic classification
Regions of origin are Malaysia, Australia and Indonesia from where the croton was transported west in the mid-19th century. The croton can grow up to 3 meters high in its habitat with leaves up to 30 cm long. The naming is a bit confusing, because there is the non-Latin name croton, and the Latin name Croton. Croton refers to the Codiaeum variegatum, while Croton refers to a completely different genus, which also belongs to the Euphorbiaceae family. In English, a Codiaeum variegatum often becomes a garden Croton. mentioned. The English word ?? variegated ?? means alternating or diverse and refers to the many different colors and shapes of the leaves.
Appearance
The leaves of a croton are a bit like those of a cherry laurel, the leaves are thick and leathery, in some cultivars the leaves are lobed like an oak leaf. The leaves of all cultivars can be very different; narrow, broad, oval or lanceolate, the leaves can also curl or wave. The bright colors are reminiscent of maple leaves in the fall. As a houseplant, croton initially remains quite small; 25 cm in a pot from 10 cm to 50 cm in a pot of 14 cm, but eventually it can reach a meter or more, with a speed of 20 to 25 cm the plant grows quickly. The distinctive feature of the croton is its bright colors; yellow and red stripes mark the contours of the veins. The plants can flower in the summer, they then contain white male and almost yellow female flowers, all on the same plant.
The croton as a houseplant
The plant is easy to keep as a houseplant at warm temperatures and with its characteristic colors it forms a beautiful object in any living room or other accommodation. However, some problems often arise in winter; at too low temperatures the lower leaves fall off, but at too warm temperatures in winter the plant continues to grow and thus does not rest. It is best to gradually reduce the room temperatures from summer and autumn slightly downwards, the most important thing is that the temperature should not fluctuate too much, the plant is therefore not suitable for beginners. The plant can tolerate a maximum of 27 degrees in the summer and a minimum of 12 degrees in the winter. In regions where the temperature in winter does not fall below twelve degrees, the plant can be placed in the garden. When buying a croton in winter, care must be taken that it is not exposed to too much draft or cold during transport.
Cultivars
Some well-known cultivars are:
- Aucubifolium: This plant has elliptical green leaves with yellow speckles
- ??Bravo?? and “Norma”: both cultivars have long oval leaves with yellow veins and edges
- Bruxelles: features are broad lanceolate leaves with yellow veins and red coloring in the leaf
- Excellent: cultivar with leaves reminiscent of an oak leaf with lobes and yellow colors that change to green colors
- Hollutiana: just like the previous cultivar characterized by lobed leaves with yellow veins, older plants change into red colors, this cultivar forms side shoots
- Petra: a cultivar with oval striking yellow leaves that later turn dark red
- ‘Andreanum’: a croton with striking yellow leaves
- Spirale: a cultivar with spiral green and red leaves
Maintenance and care
Generally, a lot of water may be given in the summer, preferably three to four times a week. The root ball should never dry out, not even in winter. When watering, give some liquid fertilizer once every two weeks, from spring to fall. In winter, water may be given every five days, preferably lukewarm water. The plant may be watered daily in summer, of course not if the plant is in full sun. Spraying with rainwater will do the plant good. To keep it moist, a croton can also be placed on a bowl with gravel and water, the pot should not touch the water directly.
Stand and light
Croton plants need a lot of light, even the occasional direct sunlight, only in summer the direct sunlight can be too bright. In insufficient light the leaves can fall off and the plant loses its characteristic colors. The croton does not like a drafty environment, nor does it like gas or tobacco smells.
Repotting and pruning
The best time to repot is in April or May, take a pot that is not too large and only repot when the plant has really become too large for the current pot. When repotting, give good compost with, if possible, a little clay in it, leaf soil is also suitable. To re-sprout a plant that has become too spindly, it can be pruned back in the spring, do this in the early spring before the plant starts to sprout. Pruning wounds can be treated with water or charcoal to stop the milk juice from flowing out. You can also make new cuttings from pruned buds.
Cuttings
Croton cuttings are most likely to succeed when taken in the spring and at a temperature of 24 degrees. A cutting of 15 cm in length is then taken by cutting off a top (preferably a side shoot) with two pairs of leaves and a top. Then the stem is cut off a little more precisely just below the bottom pair of leaves, and the bottom pair of leaves must then be removed, this seems a bit illogical, but a good cutting needs a growth node that is placed in the soil. Because a lot of milk juice is still flowing out, the cutting must be kept in water for a while so that the outflow stops.
Growth liquid
It is best to dip the cutting in growth liquid for a while, then the cutting can be placed in a heated greenhouse in the ground, in such a way that the top pair of leaves is just above the ground. Every day the greenhouse has to be aired for five minutes, the soil must not dry out, but also must not become too wet. After three to four weeks, the cuttings should be well rooted and the cover of the greenhouse can be removed. If cuttings have enough roots, they can go to normal pots. Cuttings can also be propagated in small pots of 7 cm, they must then be covered with a plastic bag, but a temperature of 24 degrees must still be reached. When the cuttings start to sprout, it is usually a sign that enough roots have arrived.
Treatment of pests and other concerns
As mentioned, the lower leaves can fall off when temperatures are too cold and especially fluctuating temperatures, so it is important to achieve a more constant temperature. Spider mites can be a bigger problem, especially as a result of drafts and thus dehydration. Spider mites are caused by very small yellow or red mites that feed on plant sap, they usually reside on the underside of a leaf and make sticky silk. Spraying with water daily can help prevent spider mites, affected leaves should be removed or thoroughly cleaned every three days with clean water, this can be done with a damp cloth.
Shell and mealy bugs
The plant can also be affected by scale, which can be recognized by brown caps under the leaves. With a mixture of 20 grams of mild soap, 10 ml of methylated spirits and a liter of water, scale insects and aphids can be controlled (repeat treatment several times). This also applies to stubborn mealybugs that can occur on the leaves and in the leaf axils. A lesser problem is a decrease in the bright colors of the leaves as a result of too little light, placing the plant in a lighter place than the solution. When the atmosphere is too warm and too dry, the leaves shrivel, increasing the humidity is the solution. Too little fertilizer leaves leaves small and deformed, more fertilizer is needed than necessary.