There should be no savings on the maintenance of a Subaru, as it extends the life of the car and keeps it safe. What you can save is by carrying out certain maintenance yourself, this saves garage costs and is also fun to do. Replacing the brakes is such a job that, with the right preparation and working calmly, you can do in a few hours.
Foreword
Despite the fact that they are reasonably wear-resistant, the brakes of a car are subject to wear due to the many use. Regular checking and timely replacement of brake pads and / or brake discs is therefore highly recommended to continue driving safely. On most Subaru models, there is a wear indicator on the brake pads that, as soon as the pads become too thin, hits the brake disc and causes a squeaking noise while driving. As soon as this is audible you have to replace the brake pads. You can check brake discs during the change from summer to winter tires and vice versa. Measure the center of the disc surface and not the top edge, which is often rusted. The minimum thickness of brake pads is 7.5 mm. Brake discs on a Subaru need a minimum thickness of 22 mm to be able to brake safely. If the disc becomes thinner, there is a risk of the disc warping or cracking during heavy braking.
Preparation
Before you start replacing yourself, it is wise that you already have the right material, driving to the store with the brakes removed is not an option and there is often a delivery time of one to a few days for the required materials. Furthermore, various configurations of braking systems have been delivered on various Subaru models over the years, please pay attention to this. If you are driving around with a standard car, it is sufficient to give the number plate to the car parts dealer in order to order the right items. If you are not sure, then at least measure the diameter of the brake disc so that the correct discs are ordered. It is also wise to treat the bolts that hold the brake caliper to the steering knuckle a few days before replacing them with a lubricant (penetrating oil or spray) to prevent the bolts from breaking off or the heads turning crazy when loosening. Be careful not to smear any lubricant on the brake pads or brake disc.
- When replacing the brake pads you have to do both the left and right wheel.
- When replacing the brake discs, it is recommended to replace the brake pads as well. The brake pads are worn on the old disc, on a new brake disc the connection may not be perfect.
- The brakes at the front wear out fastest, front-rear braking force distribution is approximately 70-30%
- Older Subaru ‘s are equipped with drum brakes on the rear wheels, a good upgrade is to install disc brakes at the rear instead of renewing them.
To replace
Make sure that the car is in a safe place and flat surface, you are sitting right next to the car during the work, think of your own safety. Loosen the wheel nuts a few turns, once with the wheel off the ground this is more difficult. Preferably do not jack the car up with the standard jack, this is quite unstable and made for quick wheel changes. Instead, use a garage jack to lift the car with the entire front or rear and place axle supports. Remove the wheel on the side where you apply the brakes, if you are not using axle supports, place the wheel flat under the car at the height of the front door. If the car does topple over, damage to a rim is less serious than the steering knuckle and part of the car hitting the ground. You also prevent yourself from becoming trapped.
Replace brake pads
- Loosen the locking pin, this is the bottom bolt on the caliper.
- Pull the caliper up, this can be quite stiff, do this with care.
- Now remove the old brake pads.
- Clean both sides of the brake disc with a soft cloth and some brake cleaner, making sure that no cleaner gets on rubber and / or plastic parts.
- Apply a thin coat of PBC grease or copper grease to the friction surfaces of the new pads and clips (the “tabs” on the side of the pad where they meet the caliper).
- Push the brake pads into place in the caliper.
- Push the caliper over the pads back onto the caliper. This does not go smoothly because the piston (s) can be too far inwards. A solution is to loosen the bleed nipple slightly so that you can easily push the piston (s) back, but keep in mind that brake fluid can leak. Another way is to hold a block of wood against the piston (s) and apply force with a pipe wrench or glue clamp on the wood and the side of the caliper so that the piston (s) slide back.
- Retighten the lower locking pin.



Replace brake disc
- Follow steps 1 & 2 of the “brake pad replacement” to loosen the caliper.
- Loosen the two bolts securing the caliper to the steering knuckle.
- Hang the brake caliper and brake caliper on, for example, the suspension strut.
- Remove the old brake disc, if it is very stuck to the hub, screw 8mm bolts in the two holes on the front of the disc to slide it over the hub.
- Clean the hub, caliper and caliper.
- Place the new brake disc, secure it over the hub using the wheel nuts.
- Refit the brake caliper and caliper to the steering knuckle.


Tips for a longer brake life
Avoid “dragging” braking. Prolonged braking in this way can cause the brake pads to vitrify and significantly reduce braking power. Prefer to brake briefly and forcefully a few times and use the engine to slow down.
Don’t hold the brakes on when you’re waiting in front of a traffic light, for example. Braking causes the brake discs to become hot and with the brake depressed, the disc cools less quickly than the rest at the point of contact with the brake pad, which can cause deformation of the brake disc.